Our Koh Phangan Travel Guide
How to Get to Koh Phangan
There are two main ferry options from Surat Thani’s Don Sak Pier to Koh Phangan: the Lomprayah high‑speed catamaran and the Seatran Ferry (vehicle-capable). We tried both and found Seatran noticeably more comfortable and better value.
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Seatran Ferry (vehicle-capable)
- Price and comfort: 170 THB per person when we rode—much more affordable than the catamaran. The ferry was larger, had plenty of empty seats, stronger air‑con, and a much bigger kiosk for snacks, drinks, and basic hot food.
- Duration and route: About 1 hour longer than the catamaran, but it’s a direct Don Sak → Koh Phangan service (arrives at Thong Sala Pier), so there’s no mid‑trip shuffle. You can take your car onboard—reserve vehicle space early, especially on weekends/holidays.
- Best for: Budget travellers, families, anyone prone to seasickness (more stable), and those bringing a car.
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Lomprayah Catamaran (high-speed)
- Price and crowding: Around 550 THB per person. On our trip it was crowded with no spare seats, so boarding early is important if you want to sit together.
- Duration and route: Faster overall but usually stops at Koh Samui to pick up passengers, which can feel hectic during peak times.
- Best for: Travellers prioritising speed with light luggage and fixed schedules.
Practical tips
- Check‑in: Aim to arrive 30–45 minutes before departure for foot passengers; 60–90 minutes if boarding with a vehicle.
- Connections: Combined bus/van transfers from Surat Thani Airport, train station, or town to Don Sak Pier are widely available—book as a through‑ticket to simplify logistics.
- Luggage: Standard suitcases and backpacks are fine; oversized items may incur a small fee—keep valuables with you.
- Seas and comfort: The Gulf can be choppy in certain seasons. If you get motion sickness, choose the larger Seatran ferry, sit mid‑ship, and consider medication. Bring a light jacket for strong air‑con.
- Peak periods: Full Moon weeks and Thai holidays sell out quickly. Pre‑book both passenger seats and vehicle slots.
- Schedule changes: Timetables and routes can change with weather or season. Always reconfirm departure times and whether your sailing is direct to Koh Phangan.
Top things to see & do in Koh Phangan
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Mae Haad Beach & Koh Ma Sandbar
Up north, Mae Haad Beach connects to the tiny islet of Koh Ma via a natural sandbar—an ever‑changing strip of white sand that appears with the tides. It’s postcard‑pretty and typically calmer than the party beaches, making it ideal for slow mornings, gentle swims, and long lens‑worthy photos. The shallow waters near the sandbar are great for easy snorkelling on clear days—bring reef‑safe sunscreen and water shoes for the occasional coral. Facilities are straightforward: beachfront resorts offer loungers, simple eateries, and rental desks for masks and fins. Arrive before mid‑morning to beat the day‑trippers and catch the sandbar at its most photogenic. If you’re staying nearby, come back in late afternoon for softer light and fewer people. Tip: Pack small bills for snacks and smoothies, and always check currents before swimming further out.
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Haad Salad & Haad Yao (West Coast Chill)
A short hop from Mae Haad, these west‑coast beaches are local favourites for their relaxed vibe, calm waters, and broad sandy bays. Haad Salad is intimate and family‑friendly, with easy paddling, casual beachfront restaurants, and massage salas tucked under palms. Haad Yao is longer—great for walks—and has a balanced mix of cafés, boutique resorts, and mid‑range stays. Both beaches shine at sunset when the sky goes pastel and the beach bars set out beanbags. This is also where you’ll find The High Life Restaurant (on the cliff above Haad Yao at High Life Bungalow), famous for panoramic views and Thai–seafood classics—time dinner with golden hour. Spend a day beach‑hopping between the two: swim in the morning, nap after lunch, then linger for a front‑row sunset with a fresh coconut or cold Singha.
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Snorkeling at Koh Ma
Koh Ma’s fringing reef is among the island’s most accessible snorkel spots—perfect for beginners and casual swimmers. On clear, calm days, you’ll spot schools of reef fish hovering over hard corals in shallow water. Start close to the sandbar and follow the reef edge; visibility is best mid‑morning when the sun is higher. Bring your own mask and snorkel if possible for better fit and hygiene. Avoid stepping on coral and keep a respectful distance from marine life. If you’d like to upgrade the experience, join a small‑group snorkel trip that includes stops around the island or out toward Sail Rock (for certified divers, this is a regional highlight). Always check the forecast; if wind and swell pick up, postpone to a calmer day for safety and clarity.
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Thong Sala Night Market
For local flavours on a budget, the Thong Sala Night Market delivers. Stalls rotate, but you can count on grilled meats, pad thai, mango sticky rice, fresh juices, and southern Thai specialities. It’s affordable, social, and perfect if you’re staying in a villa without on‑site dining. Arrive hungry and graze: pick up skewers, a plate of curry, and finish with a coconut ice cream. Seating is casual; bring small cash and be patient during peak hours. Beyond food, you’ll find souvenirs and beachwear at friendly prices. If you’re travelling with kids, this is an easy, low‑pressure dinner plan after a beach day. Tip: Pair your market run with a quick sunset stop on the West Coast, then head into town as the stalls hit their stride.
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Sunset Bars & Acoustic Evenings (West Coast)
Koh Phangan’s west coast is made for sunsets—wide horizons, calm seas, and a steady trail of beach bars that favour acoustic sets over heavy beats. Settle into beanbags, order shared plates, and watch the sky turn sherbet. Many spots offer happy‑hour cocktails, mocktails, and cold beers with light bites like satay and papaya salad. It’s a laid‑back, social scene that suits couples and families as much as solo travellers. Choose a bar with easy access to the sand, so kids can play while adults unwind. On nights with live music, arrive early to snag front‑row views. If you prefer an elevated perspective, book dinner at The High Life Restaurant above Haad Yao—you’ll capture sweeping views and avoid sandy feet.
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Wellness: Yoga, Massage, and Slow Mornings
If your ideal island day starts with a stretch and ends with a massage, you’re in luck. Studios across the island offer drop‑in yoga classes—vinyasa in the morning, yin at sunset—plus meditation sessions and breath work. Beachfront massage salas provide affordable Thai and oil massages; book after a swim to double the relaxation. Many cafés serve smoothie bowls, fresh coconuts, and strong coffee to fuel a gentle routine. Not into classes? Create your own wellness loop: sunrise walk, snorkel or swim, long lunch, hammock nap, and golden‑hour beach stroll. Koh Phangan makes it easy to slow down without trying.
Where to eat
There is no shortage of restaurants to choose from and most with stunning views of secluded beaches. Most are open air restaurants, but you will find some air-conditioned restaurants, mainly in the tourist hot spots. Most dining options are on the west coast and along the north of the island. The East Coast is mostly inaccessible and remote. Some of the best restaurants are often attached to resorts and hotels and have prime viewing areas, so don’t be afraid to check out the hotels and resorts if you are looking for a quality lunch or dinner.
Some of the places we tried and recommend are:
- The High Life Restaurant (Haad Yao): Cliff‑top views over the bay; classic Thai dishes, seafood, and sunset magic. Reserve for golden hour.
- Thong Sala Night Market: Street‑food heaven—cheap, tasty, and fun. Ideal for villa stays without restaurants.
- Bubba’s Coffee: Island‑famous brunch, espresso, and smoothie bowls; great Wi‑Fi.
- Pura Vida Café: Healthy plates, smoothie bowls, and vegetarian‑friendly options.
- Beach Shacks (Mae Haad/Haad Salad): Simple Thai staples, fresh coconuts, and feet‑in‑sand dining.
Where to stay
We spent a lot of time researching accommodation options. In the end we chose the Mae Haad Bay Resort as we got a 50% discount off the normal rate (outside peak season) plus it had breakfast included and was located on the beach. We also selected a place as far from the full moon hotspot we could find.
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Our pick: Mae Haad Bay Resort (North Koh Phangan)
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- 3‑star beachfront (built 2011; well maintained)
- Rooms and larger villas; villas just over 5,000 THB/night; standard rooms ~1,500–2,000 THB/night
- Big main pool + quieter second pool; breakfast buffet (Thai + Western) included; on‑site restaurant open 7 a.m. till late
- Clean, relaxed, excellent value for a true beachfront stay
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Other good areas
- Haad Salad & Haad Yao: Boutique resorts, cliff‑top views (near The High Life Restaurant), family‑friendly beaches.
- West Coast (sunset strip): Chill bars, mid‑range stays, easy sunsets.
- Thong Sala vicinity: Handy for markets, ferries, and scooters if you like convenience.
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Villas vs resorts
- Villas often include private pools and space, but may lack breakfast or on‑site dining—confirm inclusions and plan to eat out or stock basics. We prefer the convenience of a larger resort or hotel as they mostly have on-site restaurants, and we don’t need to go looking for breakfast.
Places To Stay In Koh Phangan
Travel costs (typical)
- Breakfast: Often included at resorts
- Dinner for two (resort): ~600 THB
- Beach café mains: 120–250 THB
- Coffee/smoothies: 70–140 THB
- Local beer: 70–120 THB
- Scooter rental: 200–300 THB/day (helmet essential)
- Taxi/songthaew (short hops): 100–200 THB per person, route‑dependent
- Car rental: 1,000–1,500 THB/day
Suggested budgets (per person, per day)
- Shoestring: 1,000–1,500 THB (street food, dorm/cheap room, scooter share)
- Mid‑range: 2,500–4,000 THB (3–4★ resort, restaurant dinners, scooter or taxis)
- Comfortable: 4,500–7,000 THB+ (villa/resort, sunset dining, massages, car rental)
Money‑saving tips
- Avoid Full Moon dates to dodge peak pricing and crowds.
- Choose resorts with breakfast included to reduce daily food costs.
- Eat at Thong Sala Night Market and beach shacks for value.
- Rent a scooter for flexible, low‑cost transport—only if confident riding.
- Book stays and ferries early for better rates; compare multiple platforms and direct offers.
- Bring a reusable bottle; many cafés offer refills.
Best time to go
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Outside the Full Moon period for fewer crowds and better prices.
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Weather:
- Best overall: Jan–Apr (drier, sunny seas)
- Shoulder: May–Jun, Jul–Aug (some showers, good value)
- Wettest: Oct–Dec (heavier rain; still travelable with flexibility)
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Note on cannabis: Shops exist, but regulations can change—check current laws and use common sense in public.
How to get around
- Scooter: Most flexible; rent only if experienced and always wear a helmet. We found many beaches and places on the east side of the island were inaccessible for cars, but probably ok if you had a motorbike.
- Taxi/songthaew: Good for point‑to‑point trips; expect per‑person pricing on common routes.
- Car rental: Best for families or AC comfort, especially in rainy season.
- Walking: Great within beach areas; distances between bays can be longer than they look on the map.
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